Thursday 18 October 2007
Sunday 7 October 2007
Last day
A long walk down with sore knees, but find a campsite that's open (Gleres, about 7 euros), and have a great meal at Piazza Giuliano. Then there's even a cinema in the old Casino, so catch the latest Chabrol (ridiculous, but quite fun). And have a hot shower.
Col d'Arraille
After about 2 hours of climbing, turn around. But it's worth it - fantastic views of the valley and the mountain as the sun rises. Snow is fairly fluffy, but drifts up to 2 foot deep, and more and more ice underfoot. See the route up to the col easily enough, but the path peters out - or at least becomes uncertain, and this means slow travelling across boulders covered by snow. Shoes not really stiff enough for this, and take about twice as long as I should. From the map, the route over the other side is hard, through scree or boulders, and is supposed to take 3 hours. Suspect this could take about 4 or five hours, so decide to walk out down the Vallee de Gaube, the way I'd came.
Right decision. Weather and view had completely changed. Took the tourist path on the west of the valley for different views and a free telesiege ride down to the Pont. Again, a wonderful walk.
Right decision. Weather and view had completely changed. Took the tourist path on the west of the valley for different views and a free telesiege ride down to the Pont. Again, a wonderful walk.
Morning, Day 4
Wake up to this. Does it get any better? Quick breakfast of muesli porridge and head on out.
Refuge des Oulettes
Arrive about 3:30 at the Refuge. Occasional view of the Vignemale ahead. Pass a few walkers and climbers coming the other way, and beat a Manchester couple up the hill to the refuge. Decide to cash in my last euros on a bunk, rather than camp on the freezing ground. Turns out I should have saved my money for the meal, as the cook's boyfriend was turning up later that night, and a wonderful meal of chocolate mousse and porc ribs was prepared.
A great spot. Have a chat with the few residents, and get to bore for England about William Blake. Was planning to walk back the way I'd came, but as English couple were heading over to Marcadau, decide to complete the three valleys and cross over the Col d'Arraille to Lac d'Estom and down to Cauterets that way.
A great spot. Have a chat with the few residents, and get to bore for England about William Blake. Was planning to walk back the way I'd came, but as English couple were heading over to Marcadau, decide to complete the three valleys and cross over the Col d'Arraille to Lac d'Estom and down to Cauterets that way.
Morning, Day 3
More snow greet me in the morning, after a night of shaking the build up off the tent (at first I think it's the sound of a cow crapping).
Walk takes me back down the vallee to the Pont d'Espagne, then up the GR10 route to Refuge des Oulettes. Quite a long route, compared to the direct one, but by far the safer given my knee, the snow, and lack of companion. A wonderful walk up the snowy vallee de Gaube is perhaps a highlight of the trip.
Walk takes me back down the vallee to the Pont d'Espagne, then up the GR10 route to Refuge des Oulettes. Quite a long route, compared to the direct one, but by far the safer given my knee, the snow, and lack of companion. A wonderful walk up the snowy vallee de Gaube is perhaps a highlight of the trip.
Lunch
Snow mostly gone back down at 2000m and below. Have some late lunch, read, rest and relax. Chat to French walker from Toulouse and plan the next day, as the high route to Refuge des Oulettes is likely to be too icy.
Not the easiest path...
Weather behind me is lightening up, ahead is getting worse. So decide to head back down. This is a picture of the route down.
At this point (about 2500m), knee starts to really hurt, so right decision taken. Not a soul, apart from a herd of Izards, and a dead sheep in one of the lakes. Chlorine tablets aren't in vain.
At this point (about 2500m), knee starts to really hurt, so right decision taken. Not a soul, apart from a herd of Izards, and a dead sheep in one of the lakes. Chlorine tablets aren't in vain.
Day 2. Circuit du Lacs
It starts snowing a little, with quite heavy clouds around. Decide to give the circuit a go, although the Refuge urges a little caution (if snow is above a foot on first lack, turn back). Not quite a foot, but the weather is setting in. And the path is hard to follow as you get higher. Find myself veering to left, following a set of cairns, which turns out to be a cross-country skiing trail. Decide to decide what to do.
Morning, Day 2. Refuge Wallon
As you can see, some snow, frost, and my neighbour across the way. Cosy night in the tent, listening to Ryan Adams for a couple of hours, and cracking on with Auster's New York Trilogy. Reflect that pacing the city, like Auster's characters, is somewhat different to current predicament, but there are plenty of Thoreau links. And even Don Q. can be tied in somehow...
End of Day 1. Refuge Wallon
About 5 1/2 hours, and you arrive at the Refuge Wallon. Quite an amusing place, with an endless game of chequers and grasshopper photography competitions running among the staff. Food not bad. You'll need some chlorine tablets for the water, though. Arrived as it was getting dusk, with shapes of mountains looming all around - although the drama of the setting wasn't really clear until the next morning.
About 200 metres beyond the Refuge is the camping area, where you can bivvy from 7 pm to 9 am. Suspect that scampering here, with pack in hand instead of back, I slipped and sprained my right knee.
About 200 metres beyond the Refuge is the camping area, where you can bivvy from 7 pm to 9 am. Suspect that scampering here, with pack in hand instead of back, I slipped and sprained my right knee.
Pyrenean Path
The path climbs higher, keeping to the side of the valley. Perfect conditions for the terrocs.
Vallee du Marcadau
The walk up this beautiful valley offers you the choice of a track on the left, or a path on the right. Take the path, past wonderful boulders and lightning-scarred trees, all under the shadows of massive scree slopes.
Refuge du Clot grub
Things start to look quite Alpine up here, especially in bad weather (in fine, it's packed). Thought it prudent to stock up on protein, fat and carbs in the shape of the 13 Euro Assiete de Clot (or it may have been Randonnier)
Pond d'Espagne
The GR10 gets you in the mood early on, with a wonderful climb up a tree-lined valley (planted to protect Cauterets from landslides, of which there is a fair bit of evidence), and then past a series of striking waterfalls. It's a real tourist spot, so every-so-often you pop out to crowds of day trippers.
Intersport, Cauterets
Gas in the Pyrenees can be a bit of a problem - esp. the screw thread type for MSR and Coleman stoves. If you ask nicely here, they'll probably find a large-sized canister in the Intersport basement. The shop's just off the main square, and opens at 9:30.
Cauterets
Cauterets comes from an old Roman word for the hot springs on which the town's fortunes are based. There's now a new, and huge, ski-lift, which was supposed to attract a winter skiing crowd. But locals not that there was no snow last year.
The thermal spas are still there, and they specialize in breathing and joint pain. There isn't quite the Romantic palimpsest of the Alps (no Shelley, for example), but Sands, Hugo and even Tennyson have done their bit to put the region on the literary map. Quite a sleepy town, which looks as though its own the verge of either being on the way up, or the way down.
I grabbed a coffee and croissant at the friendly ski-bar cafe, and searched for some camping gas for the MSR stove.
The thermal spas are still there, and they specialize in breathing and joint pain. There isn't quite the Romantic palimpsest of the Alps (no Shelley, for example), but Sands, Hugo and even Tennyson have done their bit to put the region on the literary map. Quite a sleepy town, which looks as though its own the verge of either being on the way up, or the way down.
I grabbed a coffee and croissant at the friendly ski-bar cafe, and searched for some camping gas for the MSR stove.
Thursday 4 October 2007
Part 3. Getting There
The first bit was pretty straightforward. A morning packing, checking the weather (did it really say snow? Decide to stuff an insulated jacket into an already stuffed pack and contemplate a pair of Scarpa ZG65 rather that the lightweight Terrocs). Northern Line to Waterloo, then an afternoon Eurostar to Gare du Nord. Metro to Gare d'Austerlitz, dinner in the the brasserie, then get on the Corail a little before midnight and head to Lourdes. Couchette is full, discover there's not much leg room on the top bunk, and that anyone over 50 snores. Get a couple of hours sleep at least.
Arrive at Lourdes at around 7:50. The Gare is already packed with Italian pilgrims, arriving on special trains. After about 20 mins, get on an SNCF coach outside the station and drive south. See the dark shapes of the hills in the distance. It's grey, raining, but not too cold. After about an hour and a drive up a tree-lined, increasingly steep valley, we arrive in Cauterets, once famous for its spas and thermal baths, and now the gateway to the Parc National des Pyrenees.
Arrive at Lourdes at around 7:50. The Gare is already packed with Italian pilgrims, arriving on special trains. After about 20 mins, get on an SNCF coach outside the station and drive south. See the dark shapes of the hills in the distance. It's grey, raining, but not too cold. After about an hour and a drive up a tree-lined, increasingly steep valley, we arrive in Cauterets, once famous for its spas and thermal baths, and now the gateway to the Parc National des Pyrenees.
Part 2. The Kit
| Shoes | Inov8 Terrocs (10.5) | Wonderfully light and comfy (with 4mm footbed to raise ankle bones). Grip perfect for most conditions, except wet tree roots. Not too cold in snow, but had for scrambling on snow covered boulders. Inov8 synthetic socks and gaiters to be considered |
| Socks | 1 pair Smartwool liners | |
| | 1 pair Coolmax liners | |
| | 1 pair Smartwool Crew trek | Warm |
| | 1 pair Bridgedale Merino/Coolmax | Stayed too damp. Too cold |
| Underwear | Lowe Alpine DryFlo boxers | |
| | Icebreaker merino boxers | |
| Baselayer | Lowe Alpin DryFlo leggings | |
| | Alkpkit Bleat top | Great, but a bit smelly after a couple of days |
| Midlayer | Icebreaker 190 merino zipped long sleeve | |
| | Lowe Alpine fleece (lightweight) | |
| Insulation | Berghaus Thermolite jacket | Down vest or warmer fleece? |
| Trousers | Rohan Crossboarder | perfect |
| Shell | Montane V2 | |
| Pack | VauDe welded 30l pack | Too small. Anchors broke. Better hip webbing. |
| Tent | VauDe Hogan Ultralight 1 | Probably too small for 2 people, perhaps ultralight rather than ultralight 1 a better bet. Some condensation, and snow had to be cleared from fly regularly. Took ground sheet as emergency tarp for day walk. |
| Sleeping Bag | Alpkit Alpinedream 500 | Silk or cotton lining for comfort (a bit sweaty). Should spray with NikWax before use. |
| Mat | Alpkit Wee Airic | |
| Stove | MSR Pocket Rocket, Coleman gas canister, lighter | Wasn’t stopped by Eurostar. Should have brought some spare matches |
| | Alpkit Ti Sfork | |
| | MSR Titan Kettle | |
| Torch | Alpkit head lamp | |
| Camera | | |
| | Crumpler bag (small) | |
| Washkit | Inc. toilet paper and purelle, children’s toothbrush, dental floss (used to repair walking pole strap) | |
| Firstaid kit | Gauze, plasters, pads, tape, antiseptic wipes, painkillers, anti-dihorea, compeed | Ibuprofen gel/pills for knee |
| Food | | |
| Writing equipment | Pen, propelling pencil | Pen not so good at altitude |
| Moleskin notebook | Thin, softbound checked | |
| Book | Paul | |
| Mapcase, etc. | Map in freezer bag, Compass, key fob thermometer and compass, whistle, photocopy of relevant map and walk in trouser pocket. | |
| Watch | Timex expedition | |
| Poles | Transponder | Ends fell off, suspension unnecessary |
| Hat | Rapha Winter Cap | Perfect - can even keep ears warm, and has a peak |
| Gloves | Gore Bike Wear windstopper | No insulation, but otherwise fine. Good to use with poles on warm day. |
| Water | Platypus 1.8l | Needed stop tap and insulation |
| | Lifesystems chlorine tablets and neutraliser | Water could always be bought, but saved carrying plastic bottles out |
| Food | Birds custard, cheese, packet soup (organic chicken, broccoli and stilton), noodles, porridge, muesli, powdered milk, instant coffee, galaxy drinking chocolate, wine gums | Chorizo stunk |
| Phone | Sony K800i, 1gb card, headphones, spare battery | Ryan Adams… |
| Stuffsacs | Exped drysacs 3l and 8l. Freezer and sandwich bags | Used as pillows. |
| Repairs | Small gaffer tape, with needle (dental floss); Alpkit puncture repair kit | Superglue would have been handy for pack, and possibly soles (if F-Lites are used) |
| | | |
Part 1. The Idea
The idea was to get out of town for a few days, get a bit a walking in, sit under the stars, read, and think a little. The other part of the idea was to see if I could save a bit of money, and my knees by going camping, as well as get to France; something I try and do at least once a year. I'd never been to the Pyrenees, so checked out a few walks in the Lonely Planet Walking in France and spent some time on www.kayak.co.uk for flights and The Man in Seat 61 for trains, and settled on the walk "In the Shadow of Vignemale". This would take me to some of the most spectacular mountains in the Pyrenees and introduce me to the GR10. And I could take the Eurostar and a couchette all the way there. More research at Andy Howell's walking pages, and I was all set.
The following is a record of that week.
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