Terrocs in the Snow

Inov8 Terrocs take on the Shibboleth at Tate Modern

2007-10-18T13:45:00.000-07:00

Bringing down the cattle

2007-10-07T04:50:00.001-07:00

Bringing down the cattle
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

These beasts have to come down off the hill, too...

Last day

2007-10-07T04:47:00.001-07:00

Cauterets
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

A long walk down with sore knees, but find a campsite that's open (Gleres, about 7 euros), and have a great meal at Piazza Giuliano. Then there's even a cinema in the old Casino, so catch the latest Chabrol (ridiculous, but quite fun). And have a hot shower.

The Easy Way Down...

2007-10-07T04:45:00.001-07:00

P9280574
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Col d'Arraille

2007-10-07T04:44:00.001-07:00

Col d'Arraille
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

After about 2 hours of climbing, turn around. But it's worth it - fantastic views of the valley and the mountain as the sun rises. Snow is fairly fluffy, but drifts up to 2 foot deep, and more and more ice underfoot. See the route up to the col easily enough, but the path peters out - or at least becomes uncertain, and this means slow travelling across boulders covered by snow. Shoes not really stiff enough for this, and take about twice as long as I should. From the map, the route over the other side is hard, through scree or boulders, and is supposed to take 3 hours. Suspect this could take about 4 or five hours, so decide to walk out down the Vallee de Gaube, the way I'd came.

Right decision. Weather and view had completely changed. Took the tourist path on the west of the valley for different views and a free telesiege ride down to the Pont. Again, a wonderful walk.

Morning, Day 4

2007-10-07T04:40:00.001-07:00

Refuge des Oulettes
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Wake up to this. Does it get any better? Quick breakfast of muesli porridge and head on out.

Refuge des Oulettes

2007-10-07T04:39:00.001-07:00

Oulettes
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Arrive about 3:30 at the Refuge. Occasional view of the Vignemale ahead. Pass a few walkers and climbers coming the other way, and beat a Manchester couple up the hill to the refuge. Decide to cash in my last euros on a bunk, rather than camp on the freezing ground. Turns out I should have saved my money for the meal, as the cook's boyfriend was turning up later that night, and a wonderful meal of chocolate mousse and porc ribs was prepared.

A great spot. Have a chat with the few residents, and get to bore for England about William Blake. Was planning to walk back the way I'd came, but as English couple were heading over to Marcadau, decide to complete the three valleys and cross over the Col d'Arraille to Lac d'Estom and down to Cauterets that way.

Sun breaks through

2007-10-07T04:34:00.003-07:00

P9270410
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

As you can see, the clouds often cleared, giving wonderful views.

Morning, Day 3

2007-10-07T04:34:00.001-07:00

Morning, Day 3
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

More snow greet me in the morning, after a night of shaking the build up off the tent (at first I think it's the sound of a cow crapping).

Walk takes me back down the vallee to the Pont d'Espagne, then up the GR10 route to Refuge des Oulettes. Quite a long route, compared to the direct one, but by far the safer given my knee, the snow, and lack of companion. A wonderful walk up the snowy vallee de Gaube is perhaps a highlight of the trip.

Lunch

2007-10-07T04:31:00.001-07:00

Lunch
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Snow mostly gone back down at 2000m and below. Have some late lunch, read, rest and relax. Chat to French walker from Toulouse and plan the next day, as the high route to Refuge des Oulettes is likely to be too icy.

Not the easiest path...

2007-10-07T04:28:00.001-07:00

P9260380
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Weather behind me is lightening up, ahead is getting worse. So decide to head back down. This is a picture of the route down.
At this point (about 2500m), knee starts to really hurt, so right decision taken. Not a soul, apart from a herd of Izards, and a dead sheep in one of the lakes. Chlorine tablets aren't in vain.

Day 2. Circuit du Lacs

2007-10-07T04:26:00.001-07:00

P9260378
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

It starts snowing a little, with quite heavy clouds around. Decide to give the circuit a go, although the Refuge urges a little caution (if snow is above a foot on first lack, turn back). Not quite a foot, but the weather is setting in. And the path is hard to follow as you get higher. Find myself veering to left, following a set of cairns, which turns out to be a cross-country skiing trail. Decide to decide what to do.

Morning, Day 2. Refuge Wallon

2007-10-07T04:23:00.001-07:00

P9260374
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

As you can see, some snow, frost, and my neighbour across the way. Cosy night in the tent, listening to Ryan Adams for a couple of hours, and cracking on with Auster's New York Trilogy. Reflect that pacing the city, like Auster's characters, is somewhat different to current predicament, but there are plenty of Thoreau links. And even Don Q. can be tied in somehow...

Evening, Wallon

2007-10-07T04:21:00.003-07:00

P9250366
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

About to bed down for the night...

End of Day 1. Refuge Wallon

2007-10-07T04:21:00.001-07:00

P9250365
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

About 5 1/2 hours, and you arrive at the Refuge Wallon. Quite an amusing place, with an endless game of chequers and grasshopper photography competitions running among the staff. Food not bad. You'll need some chlorine tablets for the water, though. Arrived as it was getting dusk, with shapes of mountains looming all around - although the drama of the setting wasn't really clear until the next morning.

About 200 metres beyond the Refuge is the camping area, where you can bivvy from 7 pm to 9 am. Suspect that scampering here, with pack in hand instead of back, I slipped and sprained my right knee.

Pyrenean Path

2007-10-07T04:16:00.001-07:00

Pyrenean Path
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

The path climbs higher, keeping to the side of the valley. Perfect conditions for the terrocs.

Vallee du Marcadau

2007-10-07T04:15:00.001-07:00

P9250347
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

The walk up this beautiful valley offers you the choice of a track on the left, or a path on the right. Take the path, past wonderful boulders and lightning-scarred trees, all under the shadows of massive scree slopes.

Refuge du Clot grub

2007-10-07T04:14:00.001-07:00

Refuge du Clot grub
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Things start to look quite Alpine up here, especially in bad weather (in fine, it's packed). Thought it prudent to stock up on protein, fat and carbs in the shape of the 13 Euro Assiete de Clot (or it may have been Randonnier)

Pond d'Espagne

2007-10-07T04:12:00.001-07:00

P9250342
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

The GR10 gets you in the mood early on, with a wonderful climb up a tree-lined valley (planted to protect Cauterets from landslides, of which there is a fair bit of evidence), and then past a series of striking waterfalls. It's a real tourist spot, so every-so-often you pop out to crowds of day trippers.

Intersport, Cauterets

2007-10-07T04:10:00.001-07:00

Intersport, Cauterets
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Gas in the Pyrenees can be a bit of a problem - esp. the screw thread type for MSR and Coleman stoves. If you ask nicely here, they'll probably find a large-sized canister in the Intersport basement. The shop's just off the main square, and opens at 9:30.

Cauterets

2007-10-07T04:08:00.001-07:00

Cauterets
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

Cauterets comes from an old Roman word for the hot springs on which the town's fortunes are based. There's now a new, and huge, ski-lift, which was supposed to attract a winter skiing crowd. But locals not that there was no snow last year.

The thermal spas are still there, and they specialize in breathing and joint pain. There isn't quite the Romantic palimpsest of the Alps (no Shelley, for example), but Sands, Hugo and even Tennyson have done their bit to put the region on the literary map. Quite a sleepy town, which looks as though its own the verge of either being on the way up, or the way down.

I grabbed a coffee and croissant at the friendly ski-bar cafe, and searched for some camping gas for the MSR stove.

Part 3. Getting There

2007-10-04T13:00:00.000-07:00

The first bit was pretty straightforward. A morning packing, checking the weather (did it really say snow? Decide to stuff an insulated jacket into an already stuffed pack and contemplate a pair of Scarpa ZG65 rather that the lightweight Terrocs). Northern Line to Waterloo, then an afternoon Eurostar to Gare du Nord. Metro to Gare d'Austerlitz, dinner in the the brasserie, then get on the Corail a little before midnight and head to Lourdes. Couchette is full, discover there's not much leg room on the top bunk, and that anyone over 50 snores. Get a couple of hours sleep at least.

Arrive at Lourdes at around 7:50. The Gare is already packed with Italian pilgrims, arriving on special trains. After about 20 mins, get on an SNCF coach outside the station and drive south. See the dark shapes of the hills in the distance. It's grey, raining, but not too cold. After about an hour and a drive up a tree-lined, increasingly steep valley, we arrive in Cauterets, once famous for its spas and thermal baths, and now the gateway to the Parc National des Pyrenees.

Part 2. The Kit

2007-10-04T12:59:00.000-07:00

Shoes	Inov8 Terrocs (10.5)	Wonderfully light and comfy (with 4mm footbed to raise ankle bones). Grip perfect for most conditions, except wet tree roots. Not too cold in snow, but had for scrambling on snow covered boulders. Inov8 synthetic socks and gaiters to be considered
Socks	1 pair Smartwool liners
	1 pair Coolmax liners
	1 pair Smartwool Crew trek	Warm
	1 pair Bridgedale Merino/Coolmax	Stayed too damp. Too cold
Underwear	Lowe Alpine DryFlo boxers
	Icebreaker merino boxers
Baselayer	Lowe Alpin DryFlo leggings
	Alkpkit Bleat top	Great, but a bit smelly after a couple of days
Midlayer	Icebreaker 190 merino zipped long sleeve
	Lowe Alpine fleece (lightweight)
Insulation	Berghaus Thermolite jacket	Down vest or warmer fleece?
Trousers	Rohan Crossboarder	perfect
Shell	Montane V2
Pack	VauDe welded 30l pack	Too small. Anchors broke. Better hip webbing.
Tent	VauDe Hogan Ultralight 1	Probably too small for 2 people, perhaps ultralight rather than ultralight 1 a better bet. Some condensation, and snow had to be cleared from fly regularly. Took ground sheet as emergency tarp for day walk.
Sleeping Bag	Alpkit Alpinedream 500	Silk or cotton lining for comfort (a bit sweaty). Should spray with NikWax before use.
Mat	Alpkit Wee Airic
Stove	MSR Pocket Rocket, Coleman gas canister, lighter	Wasn’t stopped by Eurostar. Should have brought some spare matches
	Alpkit Ti Sfork
	MSR Titan Kettle
Torch	Alpkit head lamp
Camera	Olympus E400
	Crumpler bag (small)
Washkit	Inc. toilet paper and purelle, children’s toothbrush, dental floss (used to repair walking pole strap)
Firstaid kit	Gauze, plasters, pads, tape, antiseptic wipes, painkillers, anti-dihorea, compeed	Ibuprofen gel/pills for knee
Food
Writing equipment	Pen, propelling pencil	Pen not so good at altitude
Moleskin notebook	Thin, softbound checked
Book	Paul Auster, New York Trilogy
Mapcase, etc.	Map in freezer bag, Compass, key fob thermometer and compass, whistle, photocopy of relevant map and walk in trouser pocket.
Watch	Timex expedition
Poles	Transponder	Ends fell off, suspension unnecessary
Hat	Rapha Winter Cap	Perfect - can even keep ears warm, and has a peak
Gloves	Gore Bike Wear windstopper	No insulation, but otherwise fine. Good to use with poles on warm day.
Water	Platypus 1.8l	Needed stop tap and insulation
	Lifesystems chlorine tablets and neutraliser	Water could always be bought, but saved carrying plastic bottles out
Food	Birds custard, cheese, packet soup (organic chicken, broccoli and stilton), noodles, porridge, muesli, powdered milk, instant coffee, galaxy drinking chocolate, wine gums	Chorizo stunk
Phone	Sony K800i, 1gb card, headphones, spare battery	Ryan Adams…
Stuffsacs	Exped drysacs 3l and 8l. Freezer and sandwich bags	Used as pillows.
Repairs	Small gaffer tape, with needle (dental floss); Alpkit puncture repair kit	Superglue would have been handy for pack, and possibly soles (if F-Lites are used)

Part 1. The Idea

2007-10-04T12:46:00.000-07:00

The idea was to get out of town for a few days, get a bit a walking in, sit under the stars, read, and think a little. The other part of the idea was to see if I could save a bit of money, and my knees by going camping, as well as get to France; something I try and do at least once a year. I'd never been to the Pyrenees, so checked out a few walks in the Lonely Planet Walking in France and spent some time on www.kayak.co.uk for flights and The Man in Seat 61 for trains, and settled on the walk "In the Shadow of Vignemale". This would take me to some of the most spectacular mountains in the Pyrenees and introduce me to the GR10. And I could take the Eurostar and a couchette all the way there. More research at Andy Howell's walking pages, and I was all set.

The following is a record of that week.